Which direction does your jig hold the body, vertically or horizontally?

Do you you thin your EnduroVar with water or extender for brushing it on?

Horizontal and I apply the Enduro straight from the can...

I'll re-apply today and turn a bit while it sets up. Top alone and back alone is no problem but each side has a vertical surface of some kind...

According to GAL (118, p18), Greven is applying under a heat lamp.

Jay is using EM6000 which stays put. It's the easiest to apply for sure! I just picked up a quart of enduro-var to see if I can make it fly. I'd sure like to lose the blue-cast.

Knew he was using EM6000 - did not know it 'stays put'.

It does stay put. In fact, straight EM6000 sets up too fast for brushing so you have to add their retarder to keep it liquid long enough to brush on. With the right amount of retarder, the "open time" can be lengthened just enough that brushing it on is doable while keeping the viscosity high enough that it doesn't run. I do thin coats which helps prevent runs. I also use a bristle brush which I found gives me more control over the application than I was able to get using foam brushes.

I spray Endure Var exclusively (at the moment), with the holder horizontal.
Spray one side, rotate and then the other side, then rotate several times until it looks to be settling down.
After the coating on the sides self levels and starts to look "stable" , then I go on to do the back, rotate, then the top, and continue rotations periodically.
I then watch it, rotating it occasionally if required until it has "flashed off" after which it can be hung up.
Only problems with runs/sags is if I lay it on much too heavy.

Yes, heated shop, like it about 70-75. 6 coat schedule for EV gloss enough if spraying, don't know about brushing. Short time between coats can mean gun doesn't need cleaning every time.
Only need to run water though the gun to clean it anyway.
Full clean up only after guitar finished.

Yes, heated shop, like it about 70-75. 6 coat schedule for EV gloss enough if spraying, don't know about brushing. Short time between coats can mean gun doesn't need cleaning every time.
Only need to run water though the gun to clean it anyway.
Full clean up only after guitar finished.

Do you have any idea how many wet mills you are shooting per coat?

Thanks, M

OK, here's something a bit different. Tried coating the sides first and while brushing WB the usual M.O. is to brush then stop as soon as you get an even coat so the WB can level. In this case I just kept brushing (1 1/2" foam brush) the single side and as you can guess the brush started to drag a bit, which leads one to believe the EV has flashed off enough to not run. The common wisdom at this point is to stop brushing or may even be that it's too late already but instead I kept brushing.

The brush was dragging pretty well at this point but the brush marks were very small (foam brushed sized) and the coat was certainly not going to run so I went on to the other side. Started with medium full brush and just kept on brushing. A couple times with just the right touch and timing it was getting somewhat burnished like a french polish. Brushed until very dry brush and dragging with a very light touch.

Back to the other side etc. Spent 1/2 an hour coating and re-coating one side then the other using this dry brush technique. Maybe 10 coats? Not sure how well it built but there's only very shallow brush marks that should sand very easily. Could be as serious flaw in this technique as time will tell but it did allow for multiple coats in a single session.

There does come a time using this method when you know you are done as the build can be seen and one is essentially putting on a pretty thick single coat with the inherent downsides but I'll sand later today and check conditions.

Shop 76 F and 40 RH.