The 1930's triple O was made in a number of different woods and trim selections which was reflected in the "Style" number (18, 21, 28, etc.) it was given. Many of the "styles" are no longer produced and as time went on some of the materials were changed (mahogany replaced rosewood, simple BWB replaced herringbone purflings, etc) on some of the styles.
So if you want to build a "period correct" copy you will need to research which styles triple Os were made in that year, pick a style and try to find the materials needed to build it.

What Clay said. The problem with triple oughts is that there are many permutations - 12 and 14 frets clear, scale length, nut width, headstock (slotted or paddle), bridges, and of course bracing. As Clay points out, they came in many different woods and appointments - some of these have changed radically (the wonderful 000-17 was an all mahogany guitar in 1930, today it is spruce topped with A frame bracing)

My first home made guitar was a sitka over rosewood 000 based loosely on the 000-28EC but with a bit more bling. It is long scale, 12 fret and I scalloped the hell out of the bracing. Even after 12 years and 22 other guitars it remains my favorite.

I also have built a 00-17 (slightly smaller body than a triple) and all mahogany. It is my tribute to the simple inexpensive Depression era guitar - you could certainly build this in the larger size. There is one last guitar in this picture, it is a single ought (parlor size) - I include it so you can see the three "small bodied" guitars from Martins past



Here is a great comparison of some of the different models

https://umgf.com/000-vs-om-t5309.html#p4966

And last, but not least, if you want to build a historically correct model you will have to research it yourself (and realize that you probably can't get some of the materials) - if you want an 000 sized guitar with your own binding, purfling, woods, etc I can direct you to some references

There is no reason you couldn't make a copy of your SM plans, do a neck layout based on the SM fret calculator and superimpose it. Or for that matter, if you want 24.9 scale and 12 frets make a like 12.45 inches from the end of the body - that will be your uncompensated bridge location. Its going to be very close to 1/4 inch towards the sound hole from the plans. Fiddle with braces accordingly - you might have to move the X or splay it a hair to keep the ends of the bridge sitting on the X and to not crowd the pinholes. Move the tone bars or not, whatever looks good to you. Of course when you build the neck you'll need to take the different scale into consideration.

That is basically how I made the 00. I made a copy of the 000 plans, found the measurements of a 00 somewhere on the 'net, sketched the smaller body shape using the neck to body joint (12th fret) as the pivot point, futzed with braces until the looked "right" and built the sucker.

Also, are you interested in a little essay on a quick and painless multi piece scarf joined slothead neck? I just had a PM from a friend who would like to see it, I would be happy to put it together. Also it would be fun to see Clay's birds beak joint - that is the totally elegant wood working joint that just impresses the heck out of me.