Official Luthiers Forum!

Okay, I'm getting ready to build a small jumbo. The plan I'm using is the J-185 style plan I got from Stew Mac. I am modifying the shape slightly. Planning for Florentine cutaway and my first arm bevel. The plan calls for the Gibson 24.75" scale length. I have modified a L-00 plan before that specified 24.75" and made the it 24.9", since I had that scale template and didn't want to bother to get the 24.75" scale template. No problem, just made sure my bridge patch was in the right place. That's just a minute difference.

This plan also specifies 24.75". I might rather have a 25.4" scale. The strings may be a little tighter and more conducive to the alternative tuning I frequently use. So, I'm considering possibly going with the long scale. Certainly the bridge patch will need to be in the right place and maybe the X-brace. There is more difference between 25.4" than 24.9" from the original 24.75".

So,
- Have you seen (or do you build) SJs with long scale?
- In your opinion should I stick with the short scale?
- If I change to long scale, are there any considerations I haven't mentioned?

Any other comments...?
Thanks,
Steve

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

Personally I'd say go for it! I'd likely move the X a little farther south and make sure the bridge plate ends up in the right place. I have no idea why M*rtin ended up with 24.9" and 25.4"..? The scale lengths of my different models are 24", 25", 25.5, and 27". Then there are my long and short scale fanfret guitars. Life would get pretty boring if everything sounded like a M*rtin...

M

The only reason I tend to use the m*rtin scale lengths is that I have a Stew Mac slotting jig and those size templates...

_________________
Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

I get it. I think the long scale SJ will be pretty cool!

Get some poster board and sketch out a full size drawing. Get the "X" where it needs to be, make sure the wings of the bridge catch enough of the X for integrity. Exact sound hole location etc. Good Luck

It's not that big of a deal. I routinely swap scales on models depending on what the client wants. Just make sure your bridge plate is in the right spot, and that your bridge wings are at least touching the x's...

Snark!
When The Podium was still open in Mpls, my guitars were regularly pulled off the wall as they stood out from the Marvin and Gilson regular fare. We've all seen the drill...thumb plucking the strings, they all sound the same...OH, WAIT, THAT ONE SOUNDS DIFFERENT! Got so they wouldn't even put them on the wall, a couple of phone calls would do it and the instruments would sit in the back room for a day or two. Boom, sold...
You guys are missing the boat if all you are building is Marvins with AGF "modern" trimmings.
I ended up with 23", 24.9", 25.34" for 6's and 23" 25.4" 26" and 26.5" for 12 strings, all with cables and low tunings. You would be surprised what a 12 with heavy strings tuned to B or A sounds like. It isn't necessarily loud, but it's room filling...there's a difference.
As far as building them ("designing"), it's just a matter of laying them out on paper and allowing for a 20 fret neck. Very short scales and short box length will enable 14 fret necks, long scales will probably require 12 fret necks as the bridge will have to fall in the right area. Just a matter of laying out the scale and setting the box in the right place so the bridge falls in the proper "zone".