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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2018 10:43 am 
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Koa
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First name: Michael
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I don't really want to apply a finish to the entire fretboard so I was thinking of using thin CA and a q-tip to seal them. Any better ideas?

M


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2018 7:19 pm 
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I don't have any better ideas, but I like what you're doing there. [:Y:]

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These users thanked the author George L for the post: Michaeldc (Fri Mar 23, 2018 7:24 pm)
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2018 11:39 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I use maple purfling strips on some of my bound fretboards. The only thing that I've found that is very effective is to do all the sandings, steel wooling or other abrasive work, then scrape the purfling lines with a razor blade. On my last one I tried painting lacquer on the binding with a fine brush but ended up scraping back to the wood.

I like the inlay,



These users thanked the author Freeman for the post: Michaeldc (Sat Mar 24, 2018 2:06 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 2:42 pm 
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Koa
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Man that’s cool


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro



These users thanked the author SnowManSnow for the post: Michaeldc (Mon Mar 26, 2018 3:08 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 3:05 pm 
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I would flood the entire fingerboard with CA, then polish it with a medium, then fine scotch pad. The frets that have the most finger action will slowly darken. When they do just use the scotch pads until clear then re-apply CA.

It is not a perfect solution but will help in keeping that fresh look.

Oh, and yes, it is a great looking fret board. Wish I had thought of that !!!

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These users thanked the author Joe Beaver for the post: Michaeldc (Mon Mar 26, 2018 3:08 pm)
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 1:13 am 
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Can't help, but my compliments on the inlay.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.



These users thanked the author Colin North for the post: Michaeldc (Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:55 am)
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 7:03 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Pnw creative inlay work . I like it


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 9:04 am 
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I can't help you with that one but you really do need to post some photos of the finished guitar my friend. It's going to be very sexy!



These users thanked the author DannyV for the post: Michaeldc (Tue Mar 27, 2018 6:39 pm)
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 9:58 am 
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I don't have any suggestions, Michael, but I'm wondering if using woods that have been stabilized with Pentacryl might be more resistant to grime and wear.
I've been thinking of using stabilized wood for a rosette and butt wedge, but I'm not sure how well it glues, and if it will take a finish coat.

Alex

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 10:37 am 
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Further proof that there is no such thing as scrap wood! Most excellent!


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 4:33 pm 
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Alex Kleon wrote:
I don't have any suggestions, Michael, but I'm wondering if using woods that have been stabilized with Pentacryl might be more resistant to grime and wear.
I've been thinking of using stabilized wood for a rosette and butt wedge, but I'm not sure how well it glues, and if it will take a finish coat.

Alex


I'm gonna have to look up what pentacryl is and get back to you. :0)


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 6:42 pm 
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Koa
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DannyV wrote:
I can't help you with that one but you really do need to post some photos of the finished guitar my friend. It's going to be very sexy!


Thanks, pal!

I promice I will take proper photos of it to share...


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 7:16 pm 
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Use plastic or bone instead of maple? Too late for this one, but maybe next time...

I often use curly maple fingerboard purflings, and seal them with shellac. Better than leaving them bare, but they still get fairly grubby. I haven't tried thin CA yet, but it seems like it would be at least as good as shellac.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2018 2:32 am 
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I scrape the markers after sanding. Then I mask the area and use thin CA and sand to the same grit usually 400 or 600. Not wonderful but better than bare wood (or worse yet, oil/wax). Sometimes I CA the whole board.


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