Here it is thicknessing the back of a broken headstock to receive a back reinforcement. As others have said, you'll need to do the volute and any curves some other way.
I guess you could say a broken head is an unintentional scarf joint
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| That safe t planer doohicky http://mowrystrings.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=50321 |
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| Author: | SnowManSnow [ Sun Feb 18, 2018 10:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | That safe t planer doohicky |
I searched several older threads for this information but couldn’t find specifics on what I’m looking for. I’m trying to determine if the tool will thickness the back of a headstock (scarf). I’m wondering if it will cut into the rising angle to work that “would be volute area” down flat little by little or if it is made to do flat cuts. B Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
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| Author: | J De Rocher [ Sun Feb 18, 2018 10:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: That safe t planer doohicky |
Yes, you can use a Safety Planer for that. Attachment: Carving headstock neck transition.jpg
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| Author: | sdsollod [ Mon Feb 19, 2018 10:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: That safe t planer doohicky |
"if it will cut into the rising angle to work that “would be volute area” down flat little by little or if it is made to do flat cuts." Not like this... A "smiley" volute is done with a sled on a stationary belt sander... |
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| Author: | arie [ Mon Feb 19, 2018 11:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: That safe t planer doohicky |
it'll rough close to your volute but the tool is designed for flat surfaces. you'll have to detail out any contours in the usual ways. |
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| Author: | Freeman [ Mon Feb 19, 2018 12:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: That safe t planer doohicky |
Here it is thicknessing the back of a broken headstock to receive a back reinforcement. As others have said, you'll need to do the volute and any curves some other way. I guess you could say a broken head is an unintentional scarf joint |
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| Author: | SnowManSnow [ Mon Feb 19, 2018 1:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: That safe t planer doohicky |
Freeman wrote: Here it is thicknessing the back of a broken headstock to receive a back reinforcement. As others have said, you'll need to do the volute and any curves some other way. I guess you could say a broken head is an unintentional scarf joint Well, you simply upgraded TO a scarf haha Yea my question wasn’t clear I guess. If I simply wanted to flatten the area without a volute .... that’s what I was after. Hey thanks for the responses Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
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| Author: | AndyB [ Mon Feb 19, 2018 2:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: That safe t planer doohicky |
Yes. One can always take the back of the headstock material off with a safe-t-planer, take it close to the neck, then do the rest of the work with your favorite hand tools (e.g., file). But if it is a scarf, I sort of wonder why it wasn't at final dimension prior to glue-up - one of the nice parts about doing a scarf. Andy |
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| Author: | SnowManSnow [ Mon Feb 19, 2018 4:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: That safe t planer doohicky |
AndyB wrote: Yes. One can always take the back of the headstock material off with a safe-t-planer, take it close to the neck, then do the rest of the work with your favorite hand tools (e.g., file). But if it is a scarf, I sort of wonder why it wasn't at final dimension prior to glue-up - one of the nice parts about doing a scarf. Andy Andy, I’m pretty new at building so forgive if I don’t understand what’s going on exactly. Perhaps it is because I glue the scarf to the back of the angle ? Around here he 1st fret area, or well before, the thickness continually increases. The end of the headstock is at final thickness from planing top of it. Again, not sure if I’m following . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
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| Author: | Woodie G [ Mon Feb 19, 2018 7:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: That safe t planer doohicky |
From what I understand, we used to use a Saf-T-Planer for thickness peg heads, but since I have been here, have used a simple bushing-guided jig with a straight 1/2" router bit to thickness and to rough out the neck transition and dart. The attached text and pictures are from a post by the boss on the process. Quote: This is V.02 of the peghead thicknessing jig; V.03 will address the x/y indexing of the template around the neck...currently fastened into jig through piloted tuner holes (or piloted holes in slotted headstock. The diamond volute is roughed in with 1/32" trimming allowance, while the neck transition for necks without is left large enough to accommodate several different transitions. A large Lexan base with bushing mount and a 1/2" downcut does the job, with feed direction as needed for smoothest cut. Obviously, if we did scarfs, we would just thickness prior to glue-up, but most of our necks are either one piece or joined with vertical glue joints, so stuck with a thicknessing task.
Attachment: 28166318_10204115418641938_5288469582576698532_n.jpg Attachment: 28277114_10204115418681939_2682512260933593174_n.jpg |
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| Author: | Freeman [ Mon Feb 19, 2018 10:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: That safe t planer doohicky |
SnowManSnow wrote: AndyB wrote: Yes. One can always take the back of the headstock material off with a safe-t-planer, take it close to the neck, then do the rest of the work with your favorite hand tools (e.g., file). But if it is a scarf, I sort of wonder why it wasn't at final dimension prior to glue-up - one of the nice parts about doing a scarf. Andy Andy, I’m pretty new at building so forgive if I don’t understand what’s going on exactly. Perhaps it is because I glue the scarf to the back of the angle ? Around here he 1st fret area, or well before, the thickness continually increases. The end of the headstock is at final thickness from planing top of it. Again, not sure if I’m following . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro What Andy is saying goes back to earlier discussions we have had about scarf joints and neck carving. I've said several times to think about each step of the process to decide what order makes things the easiest. When you cut your head piece off before you turn it over and glue it on the neck, you might want to plane or saw it to its final thickness (minus the head plate). You've got a nice flat little piece of wood - you can tip it on its side on a band saw, run it thru a thickness sander or plane it down with you doohicky. (This is also a good time to make slots if its a slot head). You can do it after its been glued on, but its a whole lot more awkward. Anyway, go back and reread some of your other neck threads and instead of just thinking about a single operation thing about the process.       If I had wanted a volute and backstrap like Steve's I would have left the head thicker, used the Safe-T-Planer and hand tools |
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