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Hi All,

I have a 12-string on the go and am looking to design a new 12-string headstock. My previous design was a little long and doesn’t fit in my current case.

If any of you who build 12-strings would be willing to share your headstock dimensions I’d appreceiate it.

What I’m looking for is

Distance from the back of the nut to first tuning machine holes
Space between tuners
Overall headstock length.

Thanks,

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Josh House

Canadian Luthier Supply
http://www.canadianluthiersupply.com
https://www.facebook.com/canadianluthiersupply?ref=hl
House Guitars - Custom Built Acoustic Instruments.
http://www.houseguitars.com

Josh, I have built two 12 strings. One has the headstock based on my Martin D12-28, it is 7-5/8 from the back of the nut to the end, the first tuner is 1.80 from the nut, the spacing is approximately 0.870. I used mini Grovers which have bushings that screw in from the head side - I do not care for the big chrome washers that came with them



I made a drilling jig to get the spacing right when I drilled - the little piece of bar stock clamps over the edge of the head.



The slot head 12 used the StewMac 6 on a plate tuners - the spacing is set by the plate an you can look it up on their web site. Again, I made a drilling jig since getting the spacing correct is essential with this style tuner



I also have a set of plans by Ultimate Guitar that shows the overall length of their head as 8-3/8 inches, the first tuner is 1-1/2 from the nut and they are 1-1/8 centers. I've always thought that these plans were based on Guild or Taylor's early 12's.

My D12-28 fits in a standard Martin hardshell case (it is short scale). Both of the ones that I've built required custom cases - they are odd ball bodies and longer than normal scale (the slot head is very long scale). While you are laying out your head design think about the string path to each tuner - it can get kind of messy with all those strings converging.

I don't have any specific numbers as I've sent mine away, but...

After you lay it out, be sure to check the string path from nut to tuner. Most commercial 12 strings seem to have the strings near the nut 'bend' around the first tuner posts, so it tends to bind on the wraps. So widen the tuner spacing a bit.

I think you can get the courses closer together at the nut than on most 12 strings, there's a point where they're too close and they buzz on each other, but you can get them closer, which can help make it fret more like a six string...

Thanks for sharing guys! This is helpful.

_________________
Josh House

Canadian Luthier Supply
http://www.canadianluthiersupply.com
https://www.facebook.com/canadianluthiersupply?ref=hl
House Guitars - Custom Built Acoustic Instruments.
http://www.houseguitars.com

I tried to make mine as compact as possible without looking funny and came out at 7.75 from behind the nut. Can't remember how far the first tuners were or the spacing...

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Pat

If you really want to make it compact you could use a set of A style mandolin tuners on the sides and Banjo planetary pegs down the center. You could make it as short as a six string peghead . Mandolin tuners use the same post spacing as 12 string tuners so four fits in the space of three 6 string tuners. It might look a little odd - so better yet use F style tuners and make a peghead that looks really odd!

I like Clay's idea for a unique 12-string headstock design!

The approach reminds me of the Rickenbaker 12-string headstock. I've wondered about this design. Clearly, re-stringing would be a bit awkward for the six tuners enclosed in the headstock, but I don't know how awkward, or how the design works overall. If anybody here has spent time with one of these, I'd be interested in impressions of how well this design works.

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Tim Allen
"Never hurry, never rest."

The only thing I really hated about that Ricky was when I had to do a setup on one a few months back ... you have to loosen most of the strings just to get the truss rod cover plate off !!! Then adjust the rods (2), tune up, check the neck relief, and if its OK, then detune, put the cover on, and retune again .. WORST DESIGN EVER !!!!!

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

My big problem with a Rick was which knob to reach for when something was out of tune. With either of mine I can pretty much automatically look at the head and turn the right knob.

Particularly with a slothead there is a definite order to restringing (start from each outside and work in). Also its a bit of a hassle if you break a string in the middle of the slot but I seldom break strings.

Also, I didn't plan mine well and the strings on the second Peg wrapped around the first Peg and I got really worried when I put the tuners on and realized it. However there was no binding whatsoever. I was actually surprised how completely smooth it was when I strung it up.

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Pat

Hesh loves Ric 12's - just ask him

Having 1/2 the strings in a groove has to be a bear when you're also working around the posts and sharp string ends. Like the Great War - trenches and barbed wire. Give me one or the other.

Hey Josh. The picture is a bit distorted by the iPad — the headstock doesn’t look quite so skinny at the top in real life. Tuners are Gotoh M6 minis.
Length from nut to tip = 194mm
Width at top of headstock = 75mm
Nut to first tuner centre = 34 mm
Distance between tuner centres = 25 mm
Tuner centres from edge of headstock = 10 mm, except for 1st and 12th = 9mm (required to avoid string/post interference)

These measurements must be very close to the Martin D12-28 I had at the time — this particular guitar was built to address the Martin faults [WINKING FACE] Guitar fits fine in a regular dreadnought case.



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