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I was using an old LMII back saw. Recently, twice it cut slots with an arc, rather than a straight line. No amount of care starting the slot would make me use this again.

So, I need recommendations for a system. I have a SawStop, but previously there was a post that the fret slotting blades will not work in this saw. I have no problem using a hand saw, because I am not a big operation. Either method is OK with me, but if a hand saw I want something simple and fool proof.

I had The Blade MFG Co make me a 10” blade with .023” kerf for my SawStop. It works. The blade they sent me was just a bit thin, so I had to put just a bit of set on it. They start with a normal thickness blank, machine the last half in or so to the desired thickness, then cut the teeth.

Your hand saw likely needs to be sharpened. When they won’t cut straight, usually some or all of the teeth are dull. Find a tutorial on saw sharpening on the web. It looks hard, but it takes only a few minutes. Don’t add set to the saw unless you need it.

Knowing that, and having a good, sharp, calibrated fret slotting hand saw, I use the table saw to slot my fingerboards. I use the hand saw on for odd stuff and to clean up slots. When I sharpened the hand saw, it cut way better than it did when it was new.

Would the table saw blade be carbide tipped? About how much did it cost?

The blade was high speed steel and can be resharpened. Including shipping, it was about $130. I considered it well worth the money. The StewMac blade (6”) runs around $100. With the 10” blade, I didn’t have to get the 8” cartridge and an 8” blade (which also would have to be custom made), or have to hot wire the saw to work with the 6” blade.

I didn’t think that I needed to SawStop protection feature to cut fret slots with a sled. The other day, I was using that blade and the sled I use for slotting to make some special kerfed linings. During that operation, I got quite wary of the blade and started to think that emergency stop feature could be useful. I was very careful and worked slowly and deliberately until I got that job done. I never want to trip the safety brake.

So your SawStop cartridge is still in place and operational?

Yes. I hope I never trip it, but it gives me some comfort knowing it’s there.

It's a really nice saw and the saw brake will give you a loud reminder if your attention wanders. I was at a demonstration at Highland Hardware in Atlanta - the noise is every bit as jarring as a shotgun blast from the same distance.

Good luck with the fret slotting on your SawStop.

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John Lewis
Wannabe builder owned by 2 crazy dachshunds

Thanks for the info, Bob! A 6" blade will only project about 1/4" above table height on my saw, so getting an 8" or 10" blade custom ground fret blade with a 1" arbor hole would be perfect! I just ordered a Japanese style fret saw from Stewmac, yesterday, so I guess I can wait awhile.

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

The Japanese fret saw from SM is excellent. Better than any back saw I've ever used

Using the depth gauge, I am not visualizing a miter box that would work. Do you use it freehand (for which I have no skill)?

Bob, when you say a bit thin, what was the actual thickness as received?

I made my own mitre box, and control the blade depth with a stop that registers on the blade spine. I'll likely have to make an alteration for the new saw. The only thing that I free hand is single malt, and with the utmost caution, at that!

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

When I received the blade, it was .020” at the rim and cut a .022” kerf. I tapped every other tooth into a .002” depression with a punch, flipped it and did the others. After that, it cut a .025” kerf. I flattened the set with a hammer on an anvil. It cuts .023” now. I suggest telling them that you want a .023” kerf and asking them to control the thickness of the rim to .022”. Getting to this point took some perseverance and work, but now, I think I’m set for life for cutting fret slots unless I spoil the blade.

When I used the StewMac 6” blade on my orginal tablesaw, I couldn’t find anyone who would resharpen it. I don’t remember why I wouldn’t sharpen it myself. The Blade Mfg Co said they would resharpen this new blade when needed, but it looks like something I can do myself.