John, it seems like if you flipped them over it wouldn't be stable enough to go through the router again because one side would be angled already. Do the screws hold it securely enough to not matter? Good idea with the screws by the way!

It took me a bit to figure out his jig, but it's elegantly simple. The rectangular brace blank is placed on top of the light colored angled strip on the left side in the photo against the dark strip which acts as a fence to hold the brace blank in place. The angle of the light strip is the desired angle for one side of the brace. He runs it through the planer and it cuts that angle into the upper face of the brace blank. He then flips the brace end for end and puts it on the light colored strip on the right which has twice the angle of the strip on the left. He runs it through the planer a second time and that puts the correct angle on the other side of the brace blank.

This would definitely work with a drum sander and I'm going make one like it for myself since it's an improvement on the jig I've been using.

You asked in your first post what angle to use. I've been using 16 degrees which works for me for upper back braces, the upper face brace, sound hole braces, and tonebars. Other angles in that ballpark would work too depending on the height and width of the braces.

I don’t fully understand the planer jig. I don’t have a planer, do u think once I figure it out I could use my thickness sander?

It wouldn't work in my drum sander. I'm actually in the middle of processing a bunch of brace stock. I'll try to shoot a quick video of it in operation and post a YouTube link here.
Cheers, M

I believe it would work on a drum sander if the angled strips had adhesive backed sandpaper applied to them for traction. I have various sleds for sanding thin material, and the sandpaper holds the work securely while running it through the sander.

It took me a bit to figure out his jig, but it's elegantly simple. The rectangular brace blank is placed on top of the light colored angled strip on the left side in the photo against the dark strip which acts as a fence to hold the brace blank in place. The angle of the light strip is the desired angle for one side of the brace. He runs it through the planer and it cuts that angle into the upper face of the brace blank. He then flips the brace end for end and puts it on the light colored strip on the right which has twice the angle of the strip on the left. He runs it through the planer a second time and that puts the correct angle on the other side of the brace blank.

This would definitely work with a drum sander and I'm going make one like it for myself since it's an improvement on the jig I've been using.

You asked in your first post what angle to use. I've been using 16 degrees which works for me for upper back braces, the upper face brace, sound hole braces, and tonebars. Other angles in that ballpark would work too depending on the height and width of the braces.

Wow, that's super fast. It would definitely take longer on a drum sander, but it would work fine using something like your fixture as a sled to pass under the sanding drum. I use 120 grit when doing braces and so the sanding scratches aren't a big deal to remove, but a planar would certainly be nicer though. Thanks a lot for taking the time to make the video.

Here is a quick vid of my planer jig in action.

https://youtu.be/C_5q7PEd-jQ

Cheers, M