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Hey people. Looking for a bit of assistance. I have some Menzerna polishes that I have had for a while. Can someone tell me if the old #18 polish is finer or courser than the new P204. And where does #16 fit in to all of that?

Thanks
Shane

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Canada

I think I may have found the answer. P204 may have replaced #18. Both are a bit courser than #16.......I think....

Shane

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Canada

Will this help http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acatalog/Menzerna_polishing_compounds_for_woods_plastics_and_lacquers.html

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Menzerna products are the best I've found. Likewise their customer support. Their product #s and product descriptions seem to be a secret code that defy the CIA and Wikileaks.

W16, P204, 480W, ATOL6, G35T. 113GZW. Gi5B, 113GZW, WTF!?

I don't pretend to being a buffing adept. Joe White, please weigh in.

Absent Joe. call Menzerna. I've been skeptical of their advice. That was my mistake. They know the business.

Buy some fretwire while you're on the phone. That's another business they understand.

Shane, you have it right. The #18 is gone and currently the P204 (salmon color) has taken its place. The #16 is finer than the old #18 or the new P204. Even finer yet is the P175 or Atol6.

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jw ( o)===:::

Thanks Joe. do you find the need to go finer than 16?

Shane

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Canada

Yes I do Shane but I'm not satisfied with the P175.

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jw ( o)===:::

So, given the new numbering system... what compounds do you good foks use and in what order?

Thanks.

G.

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www.leddingtonguitars.com

If the numbers haven't changed again recently, I use this order recommended by Brian Howard a couple years back: 113GZ, P204, GW16, ATOL6. It has worked well for me on water based finishes like Endurovar. I can't say how it would work on other finishes but I believe Brian used it on several finish types.

Brad

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Insta - https://www.instagram.com/cbcguitars/
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I do almost the same but minus the 113GZ and p175 in place of atol6...

Up to what grit to you wet sand before moving to 113GZ?

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www.leddingtonguitars.com

600 usually. Brian mentioned only going to 400 I think but he has skills and I do not.

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Insta - https://www.instagram.com/cbcguitars/
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What annoys me is that the Menzerna bars I purchased some time ago through Stewmac have no numbers/codes written on them -- zilch, not even Stewmac product numbers. So those funny numbers, old or new, as still Greek to me.


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I have/do what LMI used to recommend:

-Sand to 1000
-then #16 (olive) fine
-then #175 (cream) ultra fine

Worked great on ktm9 (water base) and nitro. BTW if anyone in the Seattle area wants to split them with me or third them even, that would be great as I've used them on a few guitars and probably not even used 1%! Let me know...I could even mail them.

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Pat

Is anyone successfully using different grits on the same buff?

It would sure be nice to not do so much sanding, but not really enough room for a 4 wheel setup...

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Pat

Easy and quick to change buffs, that's what I do when using more than 2 compounds.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

I also change the buffs, but what I got into the habit of doing is setting up like this:

Buff 1&2, then swap 1 for 3 in case I need to go back to 2 on a spot. Then swap 2 for 4 and that way I can go back to 3 if needed. I read that here or somewhere and it's helpful to minimize the time spent swapping buffs. Seems obvious, but it has been helpful.

Brad


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