Michael , could you elaborate how you are using silvertip epoxy as apore filler , I just used a system 3 epoxy on sat. with the #2 hardener to fill a w. oak back I used white silica thickener and mixed it in seems to work OK the oak has big pores . I sanded it back after 24 hrs with 220 grit, Is the silvertip the one . J greven recommends on his toot in the GAL ?? Thanks ernie

Robbie,

I've got to give the wipe-on technique a try!

I've tried using the technique you demonstrated in your uv curable video of a couple of years ago, and found the sanding to be a deal breaker. I find it much harder to sand than the Silvertip epoxy I'm used to using. I've also been told that there is a minimum film thickness required for most of the uv gel pore fillers out there so haven't experimented with wiping the surface clean. Hopefully the Simtec gel works like the Cardinal product as that's what I have on hand... I'm assuming that you are still using an adhesion promoter prior to the gel filler?

Thanks for the videos!

Cheers, Michael

Robbie, what is that lamp you are waiving? Did you do a luthier's tip on that setup?

(I'll probably never go that route, but I love seeing all the different techniques.)

Robbie, this looks great. Might a simple UV box work also for curing - not so fast I'm sure, but a lot cheaper to experiment with - an aluminium foil lined ply box with a few UV strip lamps in? Then I wouldn't need to buy the protective gear as well as the wand. Any thoughts?

Nigel
http://www.theluthierblog.com

Keep it thin so little sanding is required. Yes, I use an adhesion promoter before and after applying the pore fill.

Hi Robbie
Could you please tell me which adhesion promoter do you use?
Thanks


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Has anybody considered or tried the solarez uv cured sun light activated pore filler?

Robbie,

In one of your videos you mentioned that Simtec had a product that acted as both a sealer/adhesion promoter and pore filler. It looked like a gel that you cured with the uv light and you said you liked it since it saved a step. How did that work out for you? I am wondering because I am using the stuff from cureuv.com and have found it essential to get the guitar well sealed (especially end grain) with the sealer before anything that needs to be cured with the light goes on. If I don't, then some of it will go deep into the pores, beyond the reach of the light and I can never get it cured.

Thanks,
Pat