I used thin black and white wood fibre sheets with a sheet of boxwood for facing, that bends nicely when it gets wet with the glue
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| Backstrap Toots? http://mowrystrings.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=49393 |
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| Author: | meddlingfool [ Mon May 22, 2017 5:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Backstrap Toots? |
It's easy when the neck has a volute, as there's a separate plane to,work with, however, what is a good way of adding a backstrap to a more normal neck where the transition is continuous? |
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| Author: | dzsmith [ Mon May 22, 2017 5:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Backstrap Toots? |
Well, I inlaid the bottom portion of a backstrap into the rear of a neck. Came out nice, but it took some time. If I don't have a volute, I just try to blend the edges by sanding. This will sometimes leave a glue line. |
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| Author: | Bri [ Mon May 22, 2017 6:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Backstrap Toots? |
I just used the 3"spindle sander to create a flat area into the neck, then lightly bend the backstrap on a 3"hot pipe. |
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| Author: | John J [ Mon May 22, 2017 8:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Backstrap Toots? |
Here's my take. I personally don't like the feel of a volute for me so I usually go this route. |
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| Author: | meddlingfool [ Mon May 22, 2017 8:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Backstrap Toots? |
So far so good! |
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| Author: | John Arnold [ Mon May 22, 2017 11:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Backstrap Toots? |
IMHO, the Gibson 'stinger' look is nice. Or just run the backstrap down onto the neck shaft like a vintage banjo. That is probably the strongest. John J's take looks fine, but I don't like notching the neck in that area to make a flush join that is clean. The notch is a stress riser in a very vulnerable place. |
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| Author: | meddlingfool [ Mon May 22, 2017 11:54 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Backstrap Toots? |
John, Gibson Stinger is actually the customer request. Do you know how to do it? |
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| Author: | Bri [ Tue May 23, 2017 12:30 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Backstrap Toots? |
A quick search on the LP forum seems to indicate that the stinger is paint. Looking at some pics of old Gibsons some seem to be paint. Though these look like wood http://68.media.tumblr.com/6b92daba2bab ... 1_1280.jpg http://images.lilypix.com/albums/userpi ... 5_Neck.jpg |
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| Author: | Colin North [ Tue May 23, 2017 3:48 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Backstrap Toots? |
Just in case you missed it, Brad Goodman recently had a description of his method for this really neat backstrap Attachment: Backstap.jpg in his post here http://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=49331 |
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| Author: | John Arnold [ Tue May 23, 2017 10:55 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Backstrap Toots? |
The stinger can be done with the overlay. Gibson F-5 mandolins had one. It is just a matter of shaping the gluing surface before, and carving the overlay to a point after it is installed. |
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| Author: | Pat Foster [ Tue May 23, 2017 11:17 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Backstrap Toots? |
When I first did a stinger, I made the transition to the point too gradual, and I got a fuzzy line. Now I put a sort of ski jump on the back of the neck where the stinger is going to end so that the glue surface ends more abruptly. The line is a lot sharper that way. Pat |
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| Author: | meddlingfool [ Tue May 23, 2017 1:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Backstrap Toots? |
Thank s for the tips. Saw a method on frets.com that will do fine... |
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| Author: | cablepuller1 [ Fri May 26, 2017 2:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Backstrap Toots? |
I used thin black and white wood fibre sheets with a sheet of boxwood for facing, that bends nicely when it gets wet with the glue Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk |
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| Author: | Haans [ Fri May 26, 2017 7:34 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Backstrap Toots? |
It isn't hard to do... 
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| Author: | meddlingfool [ Fri May 26, 2017 9:59 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Backstrap Toots? |
Cable puller...your neck has a separate plane so it's much easier to do... Haans, that's the look I'm after, but how did you achieve it? |
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| Author: | Haans [ Fri May 26, 2017 4:11 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Backstrap Toots? |
John Arnold wrote: It is just a matter of shaping the gluing surface before, and carving the overlay to a point after it is installed. I don't know how I could explain it better. Draw it out, and you will see how the P/H thickness translates to the thickness at the nut. I used a drum sander to make the transition curve in the neck stock. A curved caul clamps the veneer. After the glue dries, I used a pencil to draw the curves and a file to shape it. It's that easy. |
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| Author: | Ken Jones [ Sat May 27, 2017 2:26 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Backstrap Toots? |
 You could carve it out of solid Ebony. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
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| Author: | nkforster [ Wed May 31, 2017 3:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Backstrap Toots? |
Backstraps of the "Snooker cue" variety add a great deal of long grain strength without adding mass. They look very smart when done well, and awful when done badly. Just spend time getting your glueing surfaces flat across the width and the curve smooth at the head/neck join. Likewise, clamp with care to avoid gaps. The easiest way to work the neck'head part is with hand tools.  The dart will shape itself when you carve the neck. I try to avoid short stumpy darts, they don't look as nice, nor do they add as much "whiplash insurance." Nigel http://www.theluthierblog.com |
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| Author: | meddlingfool [ Wed May 31, 2017 9:41 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Backstrap Toots? |
Those look quite nice. I was thinking that somehow it was added above the final neck line, but I can see that you must indeed dig in to the shape, remove wood and replace with back strap. |
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