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Having alot of trouble jointing my top/back. Specifically I'm getting a convex shape where im bulging at the center. Using a shooting board much like the one in this video...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4mvijD0 ... re=related.

I'm using more pressure on the toe at the start and gradually switching the pressure to the back of the plane as a finish my pass. Should I over compensate and pressure more while in the middle of my board?

Hey Luke,

When using a hand plane to shoot these joints I first make sure that I work the center a little extra to make a concave shape. When the seam is concave you should feel and hear more cutting action at the ends and less in the middle. I then use as little pressure as I can and gently plane just until I can hear a steady shaving being cut. I can judge the quality of the seam by sound as much as anything else. In the end I usually have to use a little extra pressure here and there to make the seam perfect. I back light the joint to make these determinations. I like to have zero light showing through the joint. This can take some practice so I recommend using some thin scraps of whatever to get used to the process. Know also that different woods will react with the plane blade differently and that grain direction and run out will affect things.


Hope this helps,

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Here is what you want to do -- (and this is especially helpful on really dense hardwoods) -- plane the center of your plates until you have a gap in the middle. Then take a two or three full-length passes. I sometimes have a bit of trouble with African Blackwood, I will take more off the center and then take a couple full-length passes. If there is still a gap in the center, then I will put adhesive backed sandpaper on my jointer and make a few passes to take off the extra at the ends. But most of the time, those full length passes with your plane will take the necessary amount of the ends and give you a seamless joint.

Ultimately, practice makes perfect but the problem is that you are applying to much pressure at the start and end. I tend to do this as well and the above method compensates for that.

Hi I use a method which probably considered cheating by the purists but gives a consistently good joint. I use a shooting board which has a 3/4 inch lift at one end so you use a little more of the plane sole surface. I also use a longer plane, I found a 22 inch plane at a yard sale a few years ago. And the cheating part is to not use the blade but to hold a strip of 100 grit sand paper along the bottom. You sand the joint for a minute or so remove about a thousanth and voila. I use the same plane and sand paper for truing the neck and finger board. The sand paper I use is sold in two inch width rolls for use on thickness sanders so it has a slightly thicker backing than regular sheet sand paper. cheers

Yo, Luke

sorry dude...that ain't "troubles" you havin...thats just a skill you ain't got the knack of yet.

Personaly me has found that the dudes who loose the word "troubles" from there approach to building ...really, trully get the Knack of it much faster.

Now me ain't gonna give you my "fix" for the situation as any of the other suggestions will work.

The Trick is to find the one that works for you.

YO, Jeff...sorry, Me no buy this "cheating" approach to your technique.... if it works for you well then its just as valid as any other dudes method. Of course, my method is obviously the best there is ... and Luke, if you really wanna know it ...$20 into an envelop to the Padma C/o dis here forum, and I'll get back to you.

blessings
the
Padma

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At one time, Jean Larrivee was jointing all the backs for his (factory) guitars on a power jointer, then touching them to the edge sander before gluing. So don't feel intimidated!
If the joint is good, that's what's important.

I do prefer a hand plane most of the time, but if the grain is too difficult, I'd use sandpaper too.


Cheers
John

That seems like a good idea if you are cutting with a blade as well. Thanks!

Make sure the blade is taking the smallest cut possible.

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I like the sloped jointing board variety, the main advantage is that it distributes the wear over more blade lenght.

When doing the final passes the blade must be at a minimum. You are basically not getting shavings, but some fine dusty puffy specks. The blade must be hair shaving sharp.

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