Official Luthiers Forum!

Hi Guys,

First post I think, though I've been looking for a while, great forum.

I'm a new builder, just finished (though haven't finished) my first mandolin. I'm moving onto acoustics and electrics currently. I've got a router that takes 1/4" bits. I was wondering if there's any sort of standard pack or requirement that you guys go for. - I realize there won't be but any information of a starting point would be very very helpful.

...Just trying to avoid buying stuff I don't need or that is unsuitable. Any help much appreciated.

...The machine is a Makita RP1110C - And is currently my only router - I realise I'll need something more heavy duty too. But this is all I've got for now.

- Jobs I need to do? - Everything.
...electric body and pickup templates to acoustic binding, rosettes, everything really. If this machine is unsuitable for some things then so be it and I'll beg, steal borrow and eventually buy more. As I said - ALL information helpful!!!

Thanks in advance.

Apologies - It appears I didn't login correctly.... Seem to be OK now.

It really depends on how your set-up to do the tasks you use your router for. Binding/purfling can be done with a 1" 3 flute with a series of guide bearings or a 1/4" 2 flute with an adjustable bearing guide on the router its self. For most of the router table use I have 3/4" 3 flute x 2" tall pattern bit that has a guide bearing at the bottom and the same size flush cut that has the bearing at the top of the bit as viewed on the in the router table. These are used for various part fab via fabrication guide fixtures. I use a 3/4" 3 flute for mortise and tenon shaping using bushing guides and templates. This is the majority of the bits I use on a regular basis.

Thanks Michael - much food for thought there.

Ever use roundover bits?

I have used a 1/16 round-over with my Foredom rotary tool and inlay base to round over binding edges but it is a 1/8" shank designed to use on a rotary tool

Thanks, I've got a rotary tool. So I'm guessing you don't do fender type electrics? - think teles require a 1/4" roundover.

I do very few electrics, I build near exclusivity steel string acoustics and the occasional classical. Though I am trying to bring my classical learning curve up to a point to break into that market.

A plunge router that uses bushing guides is a must. Years ago I made plexiglass templates to make and slot classical pegheads using various sizes of bushings and bits. The plunge feature allows you to make the cuts progressively without attempting to remove too much material at a single cut.
For binding and purfling channel cutting I prefer a router that is not too tall as to make it top heavy. LMI and Stew Mac both sell good combo sets of cutter/bearings for this though LMI has many more odd sizes. In the years before these were available I modified standard rabbeting bits with turned brass sleeves to adjust the cut depth.
Things like straight cut bits and flush trim bits I buy at the hardware store and replace them often.

There are basically 3 router bits that I use all the time, even though I have a 50 piece set sitting here collecting dust.

The first is a 1/4" 3 flute flat. I use that one to cut out the truss rod slots in my guitar bodies mainly. I also use this bit to cut the rosette pockets in a home made circle cutter jig.

The second is a 1/2" 3 flute with a guide bearing. I use this to trim off the excess top and back plate materials after I join the tops and backs to the sides of the guitar.

The third is a binding and purfling cutter set from stewmac that is complete with all of the different size bearings to cut binding channels and purfling channels.

As far as dremel bits, I have a ton of them. Seems like I dont ever have enough of them and I am constantly buying more. I havent had much luck with the dremel brand of bits though. I generally buy solid carbide bits...they last a LOT longer and cut better too.

_________________
Reguards,

Ken H

Thanks guys. Very informative.

I build both acoustics and electrics. The bits I use most include:

1/4" downcut spiral/straight bit: truss rod channel
1/8" downut spiral bit: Carbon Fibre reinforcement channel

Template bit, 1/2" shank, 3/4" diameter, 1" cutting length: Variety of template routing tasks
Pattern bit, 1/2" shank, 1/2" diameter, 2" cutting length: other (reverse, or table) routing tasks
Template bit, short (1/4" cutting length, I think 3/8" diameter): pickup/neck/other shallow cavities

1/2" shaft, 1/2" diameter straight bit: general routing not requiring template work - will get used more once I set the MLCS pin routing attachement up for the table, I suspect.

Variety of roundover bits: 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" for various acoustic designs.

1/2" shaft, 1" diameter mortising bit, 1/4" cutting height: for those router-based planing moments (don't own a planer, and handplanes aren't always quick enough...)

I also use a cove or bowl and tray bit for the 'index' ledge when doing initial shaping on a carved top guitar like a Les Paul or PRS-style.

Mattia - that's really useful, thank you.