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 Post subject: Re: Truss rod placement
PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2021 4:03 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 8:21 am
Posts: 3605
First name: Brad
Last Name: Combs
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
To Ed's point on the triple bend allen wrench, this is one of the few times you can get a SM solution under 20 bucks. The mini string spreader is 5 bucks and the triple bend wrench is 12. Doesn't answer the question about a hole in the UTB, but it does take the gymnastics out of adjusting the truss rod.

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 Post subject: Re: Truss rod placement
PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2021 4:09 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:19 am
Posts: 1560
First name: Richard
Last Name: Hutchings
City: Warwick
State: RI
Zip/Postal Code: 02889
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Well that spreader looks like something I can make in a few minutes if I don't need to order anything else. It would be nice if SM had a wish list on there sit e for storing thing like this for the future.

Thanks Brad

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These users thanked the author banjopicks for the post: bcombs510 (Mon Aug 23, 2021 4:32 pm)
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 Post subject: Re: Truss rod placement
PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2021 5:02 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2010 1:46 pm
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First name: Freeman
Last Name: Keller
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I talked to the owner. Guess what we found.

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 Post subject: Re: Truss rod placement
PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2021 5:09 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2010 1:46 pm
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First name: Freeman
Last Name: Keller
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doncaparker wrote:
With my last post, I wasn't trying to convince you to use a soundhole adjustment; I was just trying to recommend ways of making a headstock adjustment less of a problem. The scarf joint is a good way to strengthen the headstock, regardless of which trussrod access end you go with. Both ends are valid and reasonable, but there are tweaks to each that can make them more or less of a good idea. Scarf joints help make headstock access less of a danger. A hole in the UTB helps to make soundhole access easier, with no real downside. I've done both; both are fine. Right now, I prefer soundhole adjustment.


I think you need both in your quiver. I do sound hole adjusters in acoustic guitars, particularly ones with slotted headstock, which I build a lot. I also make archtops and semi hollow body electrics where you have no access to the inside of the guitar, those get a headstock adjuster. Both use the same double acting LMII rods with allen head adjusters. Both get scarf joined heads. If I put it in the body of the guitar I drill a hole in the UTB

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