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PostPosted: Sun Sep 03, 2017 7:49 pm 
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Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 4:58 pm
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First name: Ed
Last Name: Minch
City: Chestertown
State: MD
Zip/Postal Code: 21620
Country: United States
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Just an amateur here - make a couple a year. I realized that it would not be much more difficult to make a negative 16" radius sanding block than it would be to make a positive 16" radius fretboard. So I did. I sanded the first one start-to-finish, but since then I have planed 90% of the material away, then sanded the last bit.

Here are a couple of shots - it was made from the same piece of 30 year old cherry as the fretboard I am sanding:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ruby1638/16750685944/in/album-72157649776959267/

Still learning

Ed


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 7:09 am 
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The hand plane method is pretty quick, so unless you really enjoy making and using jigs, or you plan to go into production, I encourage everyone to try it. I'm not a hand tool fundamentalist by any stretch, there is just not much time to save here.

My procedure is: Resawing (unless I use a FB blank) - thickness sanding (home made drum sander) - slotting (table saw jig) - profiling (template routing or saw+plane) - radiusing (hand plane) - inlays (if any) - sanding (plane body sanding block) - fretting (arbour press).

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These users thanked the author Arnt Rian for the post: Bryan Bear (Fri Sep 08, 2017 2:59 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 5:11 pm 
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Location: Raleigh, NC
First name: Steve
Last Name: Sollod
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I got my hands on the McClary jig and went ahead and made one. Can't wait to try it out. Its gotta be better than what I've been doing. Thanks for the replies to my post!


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These users thanked the author sdsollod for the post: Marty M. (Fri Oct 06, 2017 6:12 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 5:13 pm 
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First name: colin
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[:Y:]

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 5:47 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2008 12:15 pm
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First name: John "jd"
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Barry Daniels wrote:
A file or even a rasp is simply the wrong tool for the job.


The right tool is a plane. Sand 16" on one end and 20 on the other as a guide, then use a trusty #7 to shape the rest. Works great and likely takes less time then setting up one of those noisy router jigs..

-jd


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 8:31 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 3:21 pm
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Location: Alexandria MN
With that McClary jig a couple of tips. A rounded edge "dish carving" router bit works well. I have this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Freud-99-026-4-I ... router+bit

Also when setting up slide the carriage to each side at each end of the board and make sure the clearance at the edges is equal. If not you can shim the carriage with tape.

Start in the center just grazing the board and do climb cuts only to avoid chip out. With the above bit chip out is pretty uncommon but occasionally you do get some minor stuff along the fret slots.

You can rig up a dust collection gizmo with a shop vac that gets probably 60% of the debris but it's better than nothing. Positive stops for the carriage at each end are nice.


Image

It is noisy and violent but I have been using the jig for 12 years and it works and leaves quite a smooth finish.

I have been putting off trying a plane because I can set this thing up in a couple of minutes and do a board in 10". I do plan to try my hand at planing a board after reading the posts

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These users thanked the author Terence Kennedy for the post: Marty M. (Fri Oct 06, 2017 6:13 pm)
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 10:01 am 
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A very sharp hand plane here too. I make some initial passes to get the bulk waste off then I chalk the board and use a radius block with sandpaper to mark the high spots. Lets me get real close before I go to the radius block to finalize. After the fret board is on the neck and guitar I level with a beam then fret.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 11:28 am 
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I used to make a lot of fingerboards for archtops that had large MOP block inlays. I used a similar router jig with a planer/dado bit that had a negative rake angle. Never had any chip out, even on the MOP. I used a diamond hone to make a slight radius on the outside corner of the bit which helped prevent scoring.

http://www.cmtutensili.com/show_items.asp?pars=RB~852B~2



These users thanked the author Barry Daniels for the post: Pmaj7 (Wed Sep 06, 2017 3:08 am)
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 08, 2017 1:40 pm 
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Michael I trash picked some of that europly from a neighbour.It/s called flexa LIT from paris , meaning flex bed there are 7 plies in a 8 mm thickness , will use it for jigs. Your right , t is better quality than BB thanks for the tip



These users thanked the author ernie for the post: Michaeldc (Fri Sep 08, 2017 5:45 pm)
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 08, 2017 6:34 pm 
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A local buddy glued one of them wooden radius blocks to the bottom of an old electric sander.
That feller is a genius.
I use the SM aluminum block. Maple takes about 30 minutes, Ebony takes all day.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 10, 2017 9:54 pm 
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dzsmith wrote:
A local buddy glued one of them wooden radius blocks to the bottom of an old electric sander.
That feller is a genius.
How did that work for him? Seems like those sanders have a circular vibrating pattern. Festool has one that goes back and forth in a linear pattern that I thought might work. But quite $pendy.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 10:09 am 
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Location: Litchfield MI
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An in-line pneumatic auto body repair file might work with the radius block idea since the action is not orbital.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 11:14 am 
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I use a home made 24" MDF caul attached to a manual auto body file that provides a bit of adjustment capability.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 1:06 pm 
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kencierp wrote:
An in-line pneumatic auto body repair file might work with the radius block idea since the action is not orbital.

Yes, I checked, and he did use an air tool made for automotive work.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 1:32 pm 
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When I first started, I was hand sanding as well, and there weren't words strong enough to describe how much I hated it. From there, I built Marty's jig and used it for a long time. It's pretty much the best of the router methods. I finally scored an edge sander and bought the Grizzly fretboard sanding apparatus, and it's the easiest.

The Grizzly apparatus didn't fit my sander, so I simply mounted it to the wall, which actually works out much better because I can use my sander as a fretboard radius tool or an edge sander without having to mess around with removing the jig. It's much more convenient.

Image

Image



These users thanked the author RogerC108 for the post (total 2): Marty M. (Fri Oct 06, 2017 6:14 pm) • Pmaj7 (Mon Sep 11, 2017 7:10 pm)
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2017 6:27 pm 
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Glad to see some of you using my router radius jig design. I redid one for a Harbor Freight trim router. It's pictured on TDPRI if you want to see it. While not as robust as the original, it does the trick and takes up a little less space. I bought an extra long 1/4 shank straight bit for it. Don't bother with the melamine covered MDF though, the double sided tape is stronger than the melamine adhesive.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 8:56 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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"A file or even a rasp is simply the wrong tool for the job."

Although it would not be my first choice to radius a new board, I have used laminate files to fix humps and hollows in old boards. In the right hands (experienced machinist or such) I'm sure it could be used to rough out a radius on a new board - but there are better methods.


"You can rig up a dust collection gizmo with a shop vac that gets probably 60% of the debris but it's better than nothing"

Hi Terrence,
I like the dust collection addition. I wonder if adding dust brushes to the open sides of the jig, like some CNC's have would pick up another 20% of the dust.


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