Ryan Mazzocco wrote:
Sorry for digging this discussion up again, but I just found it in a search. I'm trying to do this right now and here's the problem I'm having. I don't know what ink to use. the tutorials I found online said you can use an autobody paint, either enamel or lacquer based... I thought that since it was enamel based I could just use a little bottle of enamel paint like you use for painting on model cars. This was way too thin and runny and just made a huge mess under the screen. So I went to autozone and got a little bottle of touch up paint. it worked a lot better but almost instantly dried in my screen and I cannot get it cleaned out with mineral spirits and warm water and scrubbing. I'm afraid a harsher chemical like lacquer thinner may strip the emulsion. I may have ruined my screen.
So, since most every screen printing ink I've seen is labeled as being specifically for fabric, what can I use? I also am looking for a gold metallic look.
Nice job Rob, it looks great
I never screen printed on wood before but I did some research a couple of months ago on printing on wood. I plan on printing on a pair of wooden eyeglasses that I'm working on. I used to screen print professionally, but I don't consider myself an expert.
There are a few company's that make screen printing inks that are specially formulated for printing on wood, plastics, metals and glass. Nazdar 59000 series inks should work just fine on wood. The good thing about company's that make screen printing inks is that for every ink system they sell, there is technical data that explains how to use the inks. The technical data also indicates what kind of stencil to use, what solvents to use for clean up, mesh count recommendations, squeege durometer etc... For a head stock logo, I personally would use a solvent resistant capillary film stencil instead of applying a liquid emulsion, even though a solvent resistant liquid emulsion will work just fine. Capillary film is made to a certain micron thickness by a machine and is a applied to a clear backing film, so the stencil is more uniform through out. Also, It's easier to apply to the screen, and isn't messy like liquid emulsion. You will also produce higher resolution prints using capillary film which is the main reason I use it. When I screen print on fabric I only use capillary film. It is more expensive than liquid emulsion, but some distributors (Victory Factory Jamaica Queens, NY) sell small amounts for under $20 (I think it's about $12.00 for a few sheets).
The Nazdar 59000 series has an air dry catalyst that is either pre-added or that the user can mix into the ink. No heat is required. The 59000 ink system also has a flattening agent to reduce gloss. I would first do all the pore filling sanding etc... then screen print the logo. I would test on scrap first. If you're printing on dark wood and want good coverage you may want to print an under base of clear or white then print your desired color on top so that the print will be more opaque, and so that no grain shows through. You would also need to choke the under base art work about 2 points so that it's not seen. You can also print the clear ink over your print to seal it. Another good thing about company's that manufacture screen printing inks is they have a tech department so that you can call and ask question before you order. One last thing that is trivial: silk is rarely used in screen printing these days. Silk is more expensive than synthetic fabrics, and not as stable, and is more difficult to reclaim . You can reclaim the screen (erase the image) by using chlorine bleach or a special screen reclaimer. These days monofilament polyester is the preferred fabric for screen printing, and can be stretched to a very high tension for superior print results.
http://www.nazdar.com/prodDetail.asp?ca ... oductID=62
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