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doncaparker
 Post subject: Re: Epoxy For Fretboards
PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 6:32 pm 
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First name: Don
Last Name: Parker
City: Charleston
State: West Virginia
Zip/Postal Code: 25314
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
DennisK wrote:
I have had to remove a board glued with HHG, and it was a horrible struggle and the board was all bent and cupped by the time it came off. A glue that releases with heat alone would likely come off with less damage.


I'm curious about your bad experience. Can you provide more detail about how you went about trying to take off the HHG-glued fingerboard?

I've successfully unglued various types of HHG joints with just heat and a palette knife. If you can get enough heat transferred without scorching the wood, the glue eventually does let go without much trouble.
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SteveSmith
 Post subject: Re: Epoxy For Fretboards
PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 8:01 pm 
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Location: Southeast US
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Tim Mullin wrote:
joshnothing wrote:
Anyone dampen the topside of the fingerboard before clamping to ‘compensate’ for the moisture on the gluing face? I’ve heard about this trick from several people but when I’ve tried it I don’t notice a real difference. I don’t really get a ton of movement anyway; I use HHG and a very rigid caul.

Dampen? As with water? No. But I religiously spread a thin application of Titebond on BOTH surfaces. That was drilled into my head as best practice whenever using PVA glues.
I’ve never experienced movement of any of my fingerboards, about half of which are Indian ebony. Skill, best practice, or dumbass luck?


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+1 Always put Titebond on both surfaces, it really makes a difference.

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DennisK
 Post subject: Re: Epoxy For Fretboards
PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 8:38 pm 
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doncaparker wrote:
I'm curious about your bad experience. Can you provide more detail about how you went about trying to take off the HHG-glued fingerboard?

I've successfully unglued various types of HHG joints with just heat and a palette knife. If you can get enough heat transferred without scorching the wood, the glue eventually does let go without much trouble.

Clothes iron, spatula, paper towel, and spritz bottle.

I'll have to set up a test to see if I can get one apart with dry heat. Part of the trouble is trying to heat a convex surface with a flat iron (the wet paper towel kind of works, but not very well). Maybe a thin radius block would work to distribute the heat. A silicone blanket would probably be best, but I hate to buy an expensive tool that I hope to never use again :)
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Jim Watts
 Post subject: Re: Epoxy For Fretboards
PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 9:44 pm 
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I believe it's possible to put a little curvature in the neck when gluing on the fingerboard so the neck flattens out when a water based glue is used.

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These users thanked the author Jim Watts for the post: Chris Pile (Mon Jun 22, 2020 11:01 pm)
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bcombs510
 Post subject: Epoxy For Fretboards
PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 10:23 pm 
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I recently had to take a bridge off which had been glued with HHG. A French fry lamp for 15 minutes about 6 inches away. Used a pallet knife and it came up fairly easily. The foil keeps the rest of the top protected. I learned from Dave and Hesh, and Dave Farmer. :)

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