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I was shaping back braces today and thought I’d share a couple of things that have worked for me.

To protect the back and center strip from damage when using a plane for shaping I double stick taped a couple of 1/8” ply boards to a strip of 1/32 plastic with a gap for the center strip. You could use Aluminum or shim stock too.







When trimming ends to fit the notches putting tape on an Xacto saw prevents damage to the back or top when cutting.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Great idea! Thanks Terence.

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

The masking tape idea is so obvious after you see it! That’s great, Terence - thanks!

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member of the guild of professional dilettantes

That's a couple of good ones, Terence!

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Thanks Terence, good tips (as always) from your shop.
Recently blessed you again for the neck flossing acrylic "jig" thing http://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=47895&p=633277&hilit=+neck+flossing#p633277

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Have you tried a safe edge chisel a la gore book ? . Grind off the edges . I use a 22 deg bevel and keep it super sharp, Then use a L/N vlnmakers plane or a stanley small rabett plane, or other small flat vlnmakers plane

Have not Ernie. I do use a chisel to scallop the ends but usually hog off most of the wood for the profile with a block plane and finish the fine tuning with an Ibex finger plane which is really fun to use.

I have Trevor's books, I'll check that out.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

For trimming brace ends I use a half moon blade on an oscillating tool. It's like an electric powered veneer saw.

Good one Terry. I got some thin strips of stainless about 1-1/2" by 24" for bending mandolin ribs over a bender that I used to tape to the back.

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/To ... Strap.html

Looks like a mistake on the page as they show a mandolin strap in the first photo (that couldn't be 4" X 24").

I did most all my shaping on the good old 6 x 89 belt sander before gluing the braces onto the back. After that I did all my tuning by adjusting the heights and scallops, followed by resanding the brace by hand. The stainless slats made sanding a breeze.

Clay, the oscillating cutter sounds like a good idea, but I used to use the very sharp chisel back then. Lotsa ways to do anything.

"Lotsa ways to do anything."

That's true Haans, and the more ways you know, the more options for getting things done.

For trimming brace ends down to go under the linings I will use a flat router wrench laid on the back or top plate and trim the brace flush with the top of the wrench. Then when cutting the "pockets" in the lining I will set the router bit depth by laying the wrench across the base of the router and adjust the cutter flush with the wrench.

That works! I use a strip of plastic laminate. Works to. I just tape it in place.

Popsicle sticks. One on each side of the brace. They slide maintaining the depth when the chisel contacts them.

This is what I do as well. I would be worried about using anything metal for this. I would almost assuredly ruin my chisel. Then spend half an hour staring at the mesmerizing Tormek as it puts the edge back on.

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Good tip, Terence.


I like a veneer saw for brace ends.

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com