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I just strung up my #2 and I am finding the strings a bit far apart as I start playing up the neck.
I feel I need more space for my fat fingers, so the spacing of the strings at the nut is 1.790 in. (which feels great) and at the saddle it is 2.190. I would like to experiment & bring the saddle spacing to around 2.050.
I don't want to do anything drastic 'yet' like plugging the bridge pin holes. I was considering making a new saddle & cutting slots in it just like the nut to move each string over. For example the low E would be moving about .140.
Any problems with trying this. In the long term is there a solution without removing the bridge & starting over ie. plugging pin holes, re drilling...?

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Mike McNerney

What is the width of your fretboard at the 12th fret?

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

2.190 at 12th. I realize that if i 'experiment' with this the low E will be quite out of parallel with the neck but i would like to see how it will play further up

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Mike McNerney

You could notch the saddle to see if you like the closer spacing, and if you do, you could slot the bridge pin holes off center to move the string band "in" the approximately 1/8th inch you desire . It would require the outermost slots to be 1/16th inch off center and the inner slots progressively less off center. Since the instrument is for your use this would not be too noticeable to most people.

I like that idea.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

I was going to keep the high E where it is which means moving the low E ~.125 & so on.
What do you think is the purpose of tapering it all in the first place? Are classicals done as much?

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Mike McNerney

If you mean wider at the saddle than at the nut, then yes classicals are done that way. It is to give adequate string spacing for the plucking fingers.

I have never used a pick, so I don't know if SS's not being used for fingerstyle need the wider spacing. If the pickers don't need it, maybe it is generally done to keep the guitar more versatile.

Making a slotted saddle is your easiest and non invasive option, it works great, I've done it.

Another reason for a tapered fretboard is it allows a bit more real estate to scrunch your fingers together when playing chords in the upper positions where the frets are closer together.