Official Luthiers Forum!

Here is the latest Luthier Tips du Jour video - In this video I show how to use a UV curable pore filler.
This video as well as all my other videos are available via my website, http://www.obrienguitars.com/videos , LMI's website or on youtube.

Robbie,

I've got to give the wipe-on technique a try!

I've tried using the technique you demonstrated in your uv curable video of a couple of years ago, and found the sanding to be a deal breaker. I find it much harder to sand than the Silvertip epoxy I'm used to using. I've also been told that there is a minimum film thickness required for most of the uv gel pore fillers out there so haven't experimented with wiping the surface clean. Hopefully the Simtec gel works like the Cardinal product as that's what I have on hand... I'm assuming that you are still using an adhesion promoter prior to the gel filler?

Thanks for the videos!

Cheers, Michael

Michael , could you elaborate how you are using silvertip epoxy as apore filler , I just used a system 3 epoxy on sat. with the #2 hardener to fill a w. oak back I used white silica thickener and mixed it in seems to work OK the oak has big pores . I sanded it back after 24 hrs with 220 grit, Is the silvertip the one . J greven recommends on his toot in the GAL ?? Thanks ernie

Hi Ernie,

I learned about Silvertip from my friend Jay Lichty. He did a video on the use of waterbase finishes, and Silvertip is what he likes. I've used Z-poxy, and SB-112, etc and like the Silvertip the best. I'm using the fast hardener and applying with a foam brush, letting the first coat kick overnight. I then apply a second coat and let that one kick overnight (no need to sand between coats if applied within a 72hr window). I then sand it out with my festool sander using 320, and final level with a hard block using 320 3M gold stik-it paper. I then wipe it down with naptha and away we go...

Thank you michael. I will check out jay/s video, I/ve only used epoxy 2 x, I started with oil base filler in the 80/s moved up to waterbase 15 yrs ago and now I/d like to try epoxy. Each method has it/s pluses/minuses

Keep it thin so little sanding is required. Yes, I use an adhesion promoter before and after applying the pore fill.

Robbie, what is that lamp you are waiving? Did you do a luthier's tip on that setup?

(I'll probably never go that route, but I love seeing all the different techniques.)

I am using the Cure Buddy from UV III systems. I did a video years ago on UV systems.


Here is another one I did on UV finishes

Robbie, this looks great. Might a simple UV box work also for curing - not so fast I'm sure, but a lot cheaper to experiment with - an aluminium foil lined ply box with a few UV strip lamps in? Then I wouldn't need to buy the protective gear as well as the wand. Any thoughts?

Nigel
http://www.theluthierblog.com

Unfortunately Nigel I have no experience with this. In theory I guess it could work but I would have no idea about how to do this.

Has anybody considered or tried the solarez uv cured sun light activated pore filler?

_________________
Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

Hi Robbie
Could you please tell me which adhesion promoter do you use?
Thanks


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It depends on which brand I am using. Both Simtec and Cardinal have their recommended sealer/adhesion promoter. I like the Cardinal brand and theirs is a catalyzed version.

I have also been wondering about this stuff .
Anyone on here try it?

_________________
"Practice enough till the results aren't hopes but expectations" forum member Peter Havriluk

Thanks Robbie


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That's cool. I had no idea how fast that stuff dried, simply wave the wand and you are done. I could see that being very desirable in a big shop.

Robbie,

In one of your videos you mentioned that Simtec had a product that acted as both a sealer/adhesion promoter and pore filler. It looked like a gel that you cured with the uv light and you said you liked it since it saved a step. How did that work out for you? I am wondering because I am using the stuff from cureuv.com and have found it essential to get the guitar well sealed (especially end grain) with the sealer before anything that needs to be cured with the light goes on. If I don't, then some of it will go deep into the pores, beyond the reach of the light and I can never get it cured.

Thanks,
Pat

_________________
There are three kinds of people:

Those that make things happen,
those that watch things happen,
and those that wondered what happened.

That was a custom mix product mixed up for me. I do not believe it is actually for sale. It worked well in testing but not on cocobolo.