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I've yet to build a dread (basing my plans on a '37 D-28) - I can do 00 and 000's all day long.

Am I crazy to think I might be able to squeeze a prewar dread side into 30" length if I bend them perfectly? By my quick measurement of the sides it looks like 30", leaving space at the tail for a wedge, might just work.

Or do I need to face reality and try to track down some orphaned 32' bees wing mahogany sides to bring this project to life?

Yeah just don't you dare make a mistake

You may consider workign on an open work board just in case you need to fudge it and it won't fit in a mold.

Use a rectangular type heel so it covers more of the sides than a regular tapered heel.

Thanks

Dread sides really are almost dead on 30" aren't they?

Sometimes a good challenge is all I need.

Sides don't actually need to meet at either end...

I have never actually checked, but I would be very surprised if all Martin pre-war D's had the same specs.

As jfmckenna suggested, I would build with a work board. It will allow you to modify things if needed from your plan.

And what Ed says is so true. Just be sure the heel block and end graft cover up the short comings of those sides. (and don't forget to get the waist right where you need it before you bend)

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

I push dimensions all the time. It's a fun challenge and you can use more wood. Think it through first because some process or sequence might change.

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Pat

Thanks all. I have a KMG Mega mold - that will make it easy to test fit, and pull things in a little if needed. I'll use my Fox style bender so I can set the waist bend pretty accurately.

This one will be just for me, so I don't mind trying to push it a little. I've been building small bodies for others, but have wanted a dreadnought for myself for a while. This beeswing set looked perfect, but then I realized its also undersize by just a bit. I can get a full length back to fit, but the sides will demand a little more attention. I'll take it as a fun challenge.

Worth a try.

30-1/32", based on our mold shape taken from a 1937 example, with just under 1/4" slop on each side at the tail block and ~3/8" each side at the heel...a 30" side works with just a tiny gap at the neck or tail, and our usually accuracy in alignment in the bender is about 1/16". The slack waist shape in both 12 and 14 fret dreadnought shapes (as well as the J-45 and AJ shapes) allows us to slipped about an 1/8" or more for waist location without issue, so it seems like 30" should be plenty of room if the bend is accurate.

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For the times they are a changin'

- Bob Dylan

Woodie - thank you for taking tight measurements.

My pattern is also 30 1/2". You can gain 1/8" at the butt (end wedge) and 7/16" at the neck heel, so it is possible. I have pushed the length a little, but not a full 1/2".
I bend by hand on a pipe. To line up the bend, I draw a line on the sides at the waist, and I have a corresponding line on the mold. I can usually get it within 1/16" without too much trouble.

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John

Thank you John - that's the pattern I'm working from, and if thats the case I may well be looking for an orphaned pair of bees wing mahogany sides to bring this one to life.

Just a thought, don't know if it would help - http://www.sobellguitars.com/news-page/page/7/
Near the bottom - Making a virtue of necessity

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.